River Horse, The Logbook of a Boat Across America by William Least Heat-Moon

"River Horse, The Logbook of a Boat Across America" by William Least Heat-Moon. 1995. MA. Houghton Mifflin Co. 506 pp

Exploration seems to be coded into human DNA, some more than others. Most of us are only able to experience exciting travel adventures by reading about the journeys of others who are fortunate enough to make exploring a way of life. William Least Heat-Moon is just such a man and his book ‘River Horse” is an excellent adventure that allows the reader to imagine being along for the 5,000 mile ride across America from the Hudson Bay to the Pacific Ocean by way of a dozen beautiful rivers and a couple of awesome lakes, from New York to the State of Washington aboard "Nikawa" (Osage "Ni" is River and "Kawa" is horse), a 22 foot C-Dory with no kitchen or head.

William Least Heat-Moon, author of the New York Times best-seller “Blue Highways” has gone from the highways to the waterways with his travelogue River Horse, The Logbook of a Boat Across America“Nikawa” begins her journey from a dock in Newark Bay on Earth Day, April 22, 1995, with a proper send off from the mayor of Elizabeth, New Jersey. Just ten minutes out and the tiny boat is nearly cap-sized in the wake of a freighter. Off to a shaky start, but supported or rather scolded by his first mate Pilotis, who is really the only one with actual boating experience, Heat-Moon bravely carries on undaunted, as only one ignorant of his fate can be, looking for traces of a vanishing America. As his journey takes him through New York, past the rusted relics of factories along the various rivers he reflects on the environmental impact of society upon the rivers. As he pounds across Lake Erie with 7-foot swells, he reflects on the wisdom of the journey. As he floats gently down the Allegheny, he appreciates his fortune. His journey is full of highs and lows, pleasure and pain. Nothing is sugar coated and at times there are a few off-color anecdotes, but that is to be expected from sailors.

What is not expected, but pleasantly surprising, is that William Least Heat-Moon is also a very literary man. His chapters are full of literary references and various quotes from great literary works. His descriptions are vivid and at times almost poetic. He has been influenced by John Steinbeck and his work “Travels with Charley” and Mark Twain with his adventures on the Mighty Mississippi River. As both philosopher and writer, his book is filled with reflections on the progress of man and whether it is progress or not. As in Blue Highways, Heat-Moon is still looking “for an America stripped of the commercial fog and tabloid mentality that often masks the great strengths of her people”. Some may find offence with his sometimes blunt appraisal of the human race, but it isn’t telling us anything we don’t already know, he is just a little more upfront about it than most.

As the voyage comes to an end, the author has many conflicting emotions. The joy and satisfaction with success so near and the depression that comes from the loneliness of the home he will be going back to. But mostly, he fears the crossing of “the Bar” or what mariner’s refer to as the Graveyard of the Pacific. This is where the Columbia meets ocean tides at and is a fearsome place. "Here, where waves often leap a hundred feet into the air to cascade down in torrents of sand and silt and sea life, have occurred some of the most violent adventures and tragic dramas in the history of the marine world.” The little 22-foot “River Horse” will end her 5,000 mile expedition, traveling the path of Lewis and Clark centuries before her, into the mighty Pacific Ocean.

In addition to Heat-Moon’s well-written philosophical narrative, each “waterway” section of the book begins with an excerpt from travelogues and journals of adventures that have traveled before him, voices from the past. These add to the history of the places and give an insight to the changes that have taken places. Heat-Moon also has a passion for maps and the naming of places. He passes along vast bits of historic trivia that keep the trip as interesting as his mis-adventures keep it exciting. There are small topographical maps throughout to allow the reader to visually follow the route. Of the over 5,000 miles traveled, only less than 100 miles where on land. Heat-Moon spent years researching his route and planning his trip to every last detail, or so he thought, until his first marina shower and he found out he hadn’t packed his towel, which is a why this book the perfect read for anyone who is planning even a weekend on the river.

The New River here in Giles County offers the same opportunity for exploration and river conservation. Earth Day is right around the corner. It is a great time to look for local river clean-up opportunities. Call the County Office for information. Spring is also, the perfect time to plan that family vacation and with the economy in the shape it is in, why not vacation right here at home? Do your own research. Find out some of the history of the area and take the whole family down the river. Even if you are not a boat person, you can enjoy the river by car. There are plenty of excellent public use fishing and picnicking areas along the New River, not to mention thousands of years of history. Check with the Chamber of Commerce, the Giles County Historical Society or Google for more information on planning a historical family vacation full of adventure and exploration. How did Rich Creek get its name? Why do they call it Hungry Hollow? Did you know that Christopher Gist, the first white man to see Mountain Lake, was the grandfather of Sequoias, the Cherokee who created the Cherokee alphabet? History can be fun for the whole family, not just the history of ancestors but your own history can be just as interesting. Take the kids to your favorite childhood fishing spot. Show them where your Grandpa used to live. Where did you get your first kiss? How did you fall in love? Teach your children the stories of your family before they are lost and your descendants have no history to share.